Riccardo Tisci’s debut collection for Burberry, unveiled at London Fashion Week in September 2018, was nothing short of a spectacle. The Spring/Summer 2019 ready-to-wear show, a breathtaking display of 133 looks, marked a significant turning point for the iconic British brand. It was a bold statement, a carefully orchestrated blend of heritage and modernity, a testament to Tisci’s vision and a resounding success in revitalizing a house steeped in tradition. Between the procession of major models, the deft reimagining of classic Burberry elements, and the sheer scale of the presentation, it was clear that the new chief creative officer had arrived with a bang – and a meticulously crafted collection to prove it.
A New Era, A Familiar Setting:
The show itself took place in a transformed Kensington Gardens, a fittingly regal backdrop for a brand synonymous with British elegance. The sheer size of the production – the extensive runway, the elaborate seating arrangements, and the sheer number of looks – immediately set the tone for a collection that aimed for nothing less than grand. This wasn't just a presentation; it was an experience, a carefully curated immersion into the world Tisci was building for Burberry. The atmosphere was electric, a palpable buzz of anticipation hanging in the air as the audience, a mix of industry insiders, celebrities, and press, eagerly awaited the unveiling of Tisci's vision.
The collection itself was a masterful juxtaposition of old and new, a respectful nod to Burberry's rich history interwoven with a distinctly contemporary aesthetic. Tisci, known for his dramatic silhouettes and powerful aesthetic language at Givenchy, brought his signature style to the British heritage brand, but without sacrificing the essence of Burberry itself. He didn't erase the past; instead, he reinterpreted it, breathing new life into familiar codes and creating a dialogue between the house's legacy and a forward-thinking vision.
Reimagining the Classics: A Symphony of Textures and Silhouettes:
The iconic Burberry check, a cornerstone of the brand's identity, was present throughout the collection, but not in its traditional form. Tisci deconstructed and reassembled it, playing with scale, proportion, and placement. The check appeared as oversized panels, delicate embroideries, and subtle accents, often integrated into garments alongside other textures and patterns. This strategic use of the check avoided any sense of repetition or predictability, ensuring that the iconic motif felt fresh and relevant within the context of a modern, dynamic collection.
The trench coat, another quintessential Burberry garment, underwent a similar transformation. While retaining its classic form, Tisci updated the trench with unexpected details – dramatic proportions, unexpected colour palettes, and innovative fabrications. Some trenches were oversized and dramatically draped, while others were rendered in unexpected materials, showcasing Tisci’s ability to seamlessly blend heritage with contemporary design. This deft handling of the brand's iconic pieces was crucial; it demonstrated a deep understanding of Burberry's legacy while simultaneously pushing the boundaries of its aesthetic vocabulary.
Beyond the reimagined classics, the collection showcased a diverse range of silhouettes and styles. There were sharply tailored suits, showcasing Tisci’s expertise in menswear, reinterpreted for a contemporary woman. Flowing dresses, delicate lace details, and sheer fabrics offered a counterpoint to the sharper elements, demonstrating a versatility and range rarely seen in a single collection. The collection wasn’t just about clothing; it was about creating a complete look, an entire aesthetic. Accessories played a vital role, with bags and shoes echoing the collection's themes and adding further layers of sophistication.
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